The Finance Minister of our country, Nirmala Sitharaman, has been known to showcase her love for traditional Indian handicrafts and handwoven sarees. And her choice of saree, while presenting the Budget for 2023 in the Parliament, was a beautiful red colored ‘Ilkal’ silk saree, showcasing the traditional intricate ‘Kasuti’ work. This handloom endorsement has come at a significant time and is extremely necessary to support and uplift the indigenous weavers and craftsmen.

BEAUTIFUL KASUTI WORK

The Kasuti work is a traditional form of embroidery, which also has a Geographical Indication (GI) tag. This type of design is unique to the region of Dharwad, Karnataka. Sitharaman herself is a Rajya Sabha member from the state of Karnataka. The needlework on the hand-made kasuti work typically depicts chariots, elephants, temple “gopura,” peacocks, deer, and lotuses.

The Finance Minister’s garment included artwork depicting chariots, peacocks, and lotuses. The 800-gram thick silk saree was created by Dharwad-based “Arathi Crafts,” run by Arati Hiremath. Hiremath said they had received the order for two sarees back in December, but they did not know about the occasion. “We are very happy,” Hiremath said. The saree reportedly cost Rs. 27,000.

ELEGANT ILKAL SAREES

Ilkal sarees originate from a small town called Ilkal, near the Bagalkot district in Karnataka. The linking of the body warp and the pallu warp, known locally as Tope Toni, is a unique feature of sarees. At Ilkal, this method is the only one that is employed. Every saree must have its own warp if someone needs an Ilkal saree. The body’s warp threads are prepared separately. Comparably, depending on the quality required, the pallu warp is made separately using either art silk or pure silk. The pallu motifs are typically woven in white, while the traditional colors of the sari are typically red, green, and yellow. Ilkal sarees also have the Geographical Indication (GI) tag.

TYPES OF BORDERS IN ILKAL SAREES

There are primarily three sorts of weaving patterns used in the lengthwise borders:

●     Gomi (more popularly known as Ilkal dadi)

●     Paraspet (Sub-divided into chikki paras and dodd paras)

●     Gaadi

●     Jari

ENDORSEMENT FOR TRADITIONAL HANDLOOM SAREES

Sitharaman has always worn colorful south Indian handloom sarees on Budget days, but last year she opted for an ikat from Odisha. Women everywhere, especially women in positions of power, face a lot of scrutiny over their clothing choices. But it is essential for Indian women in top positions in the country to endorse India’s traditional handlooms and handicrafts. This is because of the huge pressure handloom sarees face from the mass-produced and machine-made clothes.

Supporting the cause of ‘Make in India’, it is crucial to protect and uphold the clothing heritage of India. This can only be done by encouraging more and more people to buy authentic handloom sarees rather than machine-made ones. When people see women of power wearing such sarees, it encourages them to research traditional handlooms. It also gives them the confidence to adopt the Indian saree as formal wear in offices and professional settings.